italy: chapter 3

This one’s dedicated to the pizza.

Naples was sandwiched between two days of stressful traveling and I just didn’t find the space to want to write about it. But Naples holds one of the most special memories of our whole honeymoon and I will always remember it for that.

It’s because of our AirBnb. It’s this little penthouse studio apartment in a nice area of the city. The surrounding buildings were beautiful…exactly what you think of when you think of European architecture. The room itself was tiny, about the size of the bed, but the terrace…was HUGE. And private. And perfect. There were lots of lounging areas but my favorite part was the ping pong table. Little did we know, it would be our entertainment for the night.

But first, Conner needed food and I specifically needed pizza.

male walking down a pretty street on airbnb in naples italy

A quick google search led us to a small restaurant literally across the street. We were desperate. We walked in, there were business men with suits taking up the entire place. I was wearing leggings with a hoodie wrapped around my waist, lookin all sweaty, and I don’t remember what Conner was wearing. But I’m willing to put money on the fact that he had some sort of baseball hat on.

Just smile and nod…

We were seated within direct view of where the pizza was made – which made me very happy. Our waiter was nice and did his best to communicate with us.

[Edit: this is something I want to improve upon before our next trip. I want to really make the effort to learn languages and cultural customs. I hate imposing our American-ness onto foreigners in their own countries. I don’t want to travel ignorantly.] 

Who knew.

That this little place hid the best pizza in the whole entire world. 

We had plans to visit the actual “best pizza in the world” the next day…but honestly I didn’t need to. The secret was hidden somewhere in the tomatoes and olive oil…it was so juicy and to me tasted like pizza was supposed to taste. Pizza back home will never be the same for me again.

I had a little moment where the waiter led me into the prestige dessert room and I got to pick one out for Conner and I to share. I don’t remember what I chose but it was probably delicious and I miss it anyways. Then we did our usual: stopped at a market on the way back, stocked up with wine/champagne, orange juice, fruit, Oreos, and breadsticks.

Then we made mimosas and a drinking game out of ping pong, while listening to John Mayer’s Where the Light Is Live album (our all-time fav) and teaching each other magic card tricks & playing go-fish. As we watched the sunset and city fall asleep around us.

Such a perfect night.

The next day we ventured out to the infamous Pizzeria da Michele – known as the best pizza in the entire world. The place Liz Gilbert made famous: “…given that the best pizza in Italy is from Naples, and the best pizza in the world is from Italy, [that] means that this pizzeria must offer…I’m almost too superstitious to say it…the best pizza in the world?” So predictably, there were hundreds of people in line waiting for it. 

This place was nuts. There was a separate line for takeouts, equally as long. There was a pizza bouncer. Sunshine. Lots of people sipping their beers while waiting to be called in. The occasional scooter or tiny-car honked its way through the crowd. Very cool, very suave. I mean, we obviously had to partake in the beer sipping, but it didn’t end up passing the time like we hoped.

When our number was finally called (two hours later…no further comment) we shared a table with another couple because I guess that’s just what you do there. If you’ve ever wanted to see the real life definition of limited-seating…go here. The restaurant was filled with people sitting with strangers from all over the world. Such a cool thing to witness and be apart of. That’s a reason why I want to travel. To find what brings people joy from all over the world. Pizza did that.

julia roberts from the movie eat pray love eating pizza at pizzeria da michele in naples italy

I felt especially lucky because I got to sit in the same seat Julia Roberts did in the movie version of EPL. Right in front of the kitchen. Boom. Luckiest gal in the joint.

So you get two options: Margarita or Marinera. Conner and I got a full margherita pie. Each.

I wish I took pictures but honestly we were so hungry and delirious that I only regained consciousness once the pizza was gone. But I can still remember the taste. I’ve decided that the secret to Italian pizza is the TOMATOES. They are so juicy. Reminder: I don’t like tomatoes. But combined in perfect balance with the olive oil & lightness of the dough & the fresh cheese, I forgot. I fell in love with tomatoes thanks to this pizza. I won’t ever find one like that around here, ever, and I’ll probably be subtly shading any pizza I come across in the meantime.

I won’t recap any of the travelling, because we definitely messed up a lot. But if you are planning a trip to Europe or any other place where you’re not familiar with public transit systems, get the app Moovit. Just do it. It will save you time and all of your sanity. We only discovered this towards the end of our trip but still was extremely helpful.

So that was Naples. I loved this leg of the trip. First time around, not as nice. But I’d like to come back and give it the fair shot it deserves.

oh hey beautiful. thanks for reading my blog post! how was it? to get in contact find me on IG: katerosehayes or shoot me a message katerosehayes@gmail.com. I’d love to be in touch!

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