italy: chapter 2

The following is a revised copy of a journal that I kept on our honeymoon 10.1.2019-10.16.2019

october 11. 2019

According to Liz Gilbert’s Italian friend, every city has a word. Positano’s is beauty. Everywhere, every corner: filled with it. I am stunned speechless this morning. We took the bus (for free – oops!) from Positano to Sorrento. This place has every flower, shrub, and tree imaginable from seemingly all reaches of the world. Cacti, stone pines, ferns, lush greenery like cherry laurel, palms, endless blooming bushes and vines…These huge, majestic trees that look (at least) over a century old, amongst thriving fruit trees clustered along the cliff sides. The city has grown around them and I have never seen man and earth blend together so seamlessly and beautifully. 

screenshot of a bus ride from positano to sorrento italy

I was in such shock on this bus ride that I couldn’t take any pictures but I did take a screenshot of where we were along the trip so that I could make sure to come back.

Every street is picturesque and charming. Every building has terraces all around and every terrace is draped in more greenery and beauty. In between buildings there are these surprising little sanctuaries of wildlife- actually wait. Let me paint a better picture. If I were to take a photo of one of these areas and crop the buildings out, you would believe it was taken in a wild forest or jungle.

You’d be confused and in shock when I told you I took it in the middle of Sorrento.

This beautiful city. 

(Most of these pics are still from Positano where we spent the most time)

If I could design a dream place it would be here. Wouldn’t change a thing. Except I’d learn Italian. I just can’t get over it. All the shops here have such charm complimenting all the cobblestone streets, the orange trees growing in the middle of the sidewalk. That bus ride was one of my favorite parts of this whole trip. And it was free. Take that, $300 taxi ride.

So now we are sitting on a bench in Sorrento killing some time before we leave for Naples. After my last entry, we beach bummed our bums off. My legs actually got some color! Conservatively. An Italian tan at its bare minimum. I got to live out my dream and eat lemon sorbet…out of a lemon. Would have bought 10 more. 5 for now, 5 for the road. Conner, being the voice of reason, said no. 

Also I didn’t know pistachios where such a thing in Positano. They were everywhere. I went in on the pistachio cannolis (from Colina’s bakery – also has some amazing pizza and that lemon sorbet in the lemon).

One of the beach days, a drum duo treated us to genuinely relaxing beats over some soothing, vacation-esque electric music. If you could imagine that. Really just a nice cherry on top to the day. 

Remember that restaurant we ate at the first night? Maybe I didn’t tell you. [Edit: I definitely didn’t tell you] Conner had one of his favorite burgers there and was dying to go back. It was also the place where I audibly moaned eating a salad probably for the first time in my life so I wasn’t going to argue. It’s the kind of place though where there are like 8 tables on the side of the road and if they’re all taken, you’re sh-t out of luck.

Our first walk-by, no dice.

So we strolled down to Positano’s waterfront and explored in all it’s nighttime glory. It’s very different from its daytime glory because A: There are way less people around and B: there are way less people around. It shocked me. And there was nowhere else we wanted to eat. Were we being picky? It was just kind of sad and dark down there.

After a while we made our way back up the hill. If there were still no seats, we’d probably end up back in our room eating leftover breadsticks and fruit. Sad. But that’s the kind of toll a $300 taxi ride can inflict.

The stars aligned for us though and a table opened up just as we were walking back. I mean, they were grabbing the bill, but same thing? Queue Conner’s excitement, me trying tomatoes for the billionth time in my life but this time actually liking them, two rounds of bread that we smuggled half of into my bag, and two free limoncello shots. Was a great night. 

lemon slushy ingredients from valenti positano on a terrace in the amalfi coast of italy

Valenti Posistano. If you, the reader, are reading this you should probably pack up and just go now. Or place an order if you’re a big lemon fan and want to taste some of the best lemon products in the world. I didn’t know I was such a big lemon fan myself until visiting this place. It is the sweetest small family business, and we felt so welcomed, which didn’t happen often as tourists. Their brand label is one of their little kid’s drawings……I mean. CUTE. They make delicious house-made oils, jams, liqueurs, limoncello, lemon slushies…thy even gave us some ingredients to take back to our hotel – on the house. Needless to say, we found our favorite little market in Positano, unlike the one up the street who tried swindling us. Oh yea. This lady.

When I asked if she had a credit card machine:

“Yes, 20 euro minimum”. 

So we grabbed what we thought was 20 euro worth and brought it up to the counter. She was busy so her son (? we guess) helped us out. It ended up being nowhere near 20 euros but he literally did not give a sh-t. She was all flustered and embarrassed but YAY US.

happy male wearing a hat holding beer in a grocery market in positano on the amalfi coast of italy

In our intentions to reach her “20 euro minimum” we bought tortellini to make the next day which we actually did (surprisingly), finished with a delicious olive oil, paired with wine, and enjoyed on our terrace, per ussch. 

Positano has brought out a different side in us that I really love, and the place has been so good to us. Easy. Vermont is beautiful and I feel eternally grateful for growing up in such a perfect state, but the Amalfi coast is beautiful – and speaks directly to my soul. I feel so at home here, maybe reunited with a past life of mine. Hopefully. I want to be that cool.

Anyways, I’m probably rambling at this point and despite my efforts, no words, not even from the best writers, could do this place justice. We’re off to Naples. I’ll be back with news of the best pizza in the world. xx

oh hey beautiful. thanks for reading my blog post! how was it? to get in contact find me on IG: katerosehayes or shoot me a message katerosehayes@gmail.com. I’d love to be in touch!

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